Yamadera is a temple area situated on the mountains of Yamagata City. Literally translated as “Mountain Temple”, it is a historical treasure best known for being the site where Basho, a famous haiku poet, wrote his “ah this silence / sinking into rocks / voice of cicada” haikyu in 1689; the Risshaku-ji, which is a temple founded in 860 AD by a Tendai sect priest; and its incredible natural scenery, any time of the year. I went there in the middle of December and was welcomed by a small town covered in thick, white snow.
How to get to Yamadera
Yamadera can easily be accessed via Japan Railways. From Tokyo Station, I hopped on a Shinkansen going to Sendai Station, and then transferred to the JR Senzan Line going to Yamadera Station. The entire trip took about two and a half to three hours, and was fully covered by my Japan Rail Pass.
Getting around Yamadera
Yamadera is only a five-minute walk from Yamadera Station. Upon arriving, just look for signs pointing you to the temple entrance at the base of the mountain. If you want to gather some information on the temple before your climb, you can stop by the tourist information centre. Look for it right after you cross the small bridge on your way to the temple.
What to see
Yamadera Temple
The temple complex covers a pretty large area of the mountains and consists of several buildings, gates and observation decks.
At the base of the mountain, where the temple entrance is located, you can find a number of buildings and statues, most notably a Basho statue bearing an inscription of his famous haiku and Yamadera’s main hall, called Konponchudo Hall. Nearby is a small building where you can purchase a ticket, which costs 300 yen, so you can access the upper temple grounds.
The hike up begins at the Sanmon Gate. As the temperature was zero degrees Celsius and everything was covered in snow when I was there, the climb was not so easy. I had to be extra careful to not slip on some of the ice-covered steps. Certain parts of the path had handrails, so try to use those as much as possible if you plan to visit in winter. Of course, make sure you wear the appropriate winter gear – coat, boots, gloves, hat, etc. – so as avoid accidents or freezing to death!
The hike takes you through a dense forest with some interesting rock formations, including a large one called Mida Hora, which has a shape similar to that of the Amida Buddha. A few minutes away is the Niomon Gate, which was constructed in the 1800s and serves as a marker for the temple’s upper area.
The upper temple area is composed of many buildings that sit on the mountainside and provides excellent views of the surroundings. Once you see Godaido Hall, you can take a short break at its observation deck and take in breathtaking views of the mountains and the valley below. After that, resume your hike up to the Okunoin area to get a glimpse of the Amida Buddha in Daibutsuden Hall.
The hike up to the top typically takes about 30 to 40 minutes but it took me almost an hour because of multiple breaks and not being used to walking on snow and ice. Going back down was faster and easier, and I was back at the temple entrance in about half an hour.
