Kosanji, on Ikuchijima island in the Seto Inland Sea, may be the most extraordinary act of filial piety in Japan. A wealthy industrialist turned priest spent three decades building this temple complex in memory of his mother, recreating famous buildings from across the country, gates in the manner of Nikko, halls echoing Byodo-in, so that her memorial would gather Japan’s architectural glories in one place. The result is dazzling, eccentric and quite unlike any other temple you will visit.
The hillside precinct stacks ornate halls, pagodas and a thousand buddha cave passage lined with statuary, while the museum galleries hold Buddhist art and the founder’s collections. Above it all spreads the Hill of Hope, a garden of gleaming white Carrara marble carved by sculptor Kazuto Kuetani, whose pale terraces against the blue of the inland sea have become one of the region’s most striking sights and a favourite of photographers.
The surrounding town of Setoda is the citrus heart of Japan, and lemon flavoured everything awaits along its arcade. Cyclists on the Shimanami Kaido route between Onomichi and Shikoku pass the temple gates, making Kosanji a natural rest point on the ride.
From Onomichi, passenger ferries run direct to Setoda in around 40 minutes, an inland sea cruise in miniature. Buses from Onomichi and Fukuyama cross the Shimanami bridges to Setoda BS with a short walk onward. Onomichi is on the JR San’yo Line about 90 minutes from Hiroshima.
Is the marble hill included? The Hill of Hope sits within the complex; confirm current ticket coverage when booking.
How long does a visit take? Around two hours to see the halls, cave and hilltop properly.
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