Katsuo-ji is the temple Osaka locals visit when they need a win. Set in the forested hills of Minoh, north of the city, it has been associated with victory and good fortune for centuries, and today it is famous for the thousands of small daruma dolls left across its grounds by visitors whose wishes came true. Around every corner, on every ledge and lantern, another row of little red faces stares back at you.
The custom is simple and rather lovely. You choose a daruma, paint in one eye while setting a goal, and take it home. When the goal is achieved you paint in the second eye and return the doll to the temple, which is why the grounds are covered with them. Students bring them before exams, business owners keep them by the till, and athletes deliver them ahead of big seasons.
The temple rewards a visit in any season, but it is genuinely special in late autumn when the surrounding maple forest turns red and gold. It is also far quieter than the famous temples of Kyoto, so you can wander the ponds, halls and hillside paths at your own pace. Allow a couple of hours plus travel time from central Osaka.
Take the Midosuji Line north to Senri-Chuo, then a Hankyu bus bound for Katsuoji. Services are limited on weekdays and more frequent on weekends and during the autumn leaf season, so check times before you head out, or take a taxi from Senri-Chuo if the schedule does not suit.



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