Beppu produces more hot spring water than anywhere else in Japan, and the town has found every possible way to enjoy it, including burying you in it. At the seaside sand bath, attendants shovel naturally heated black sand over your yukata clad body until only your head is free, and you lie there listening to the waves while the warmth soaks through to your bones.
The weight of the warm sand is the surprise. It presses gently all over, a little like a heavy blanket, and within minutes most people feel their shoulders drop and their pulse slow. Sessions are kept short because the heat builds steadily, and afterwards you rinse off and can soak in a regular bath to finish. Locals swear by it for circulation and tired muscles; visitors mostly just emerge grinning and very relaxed.
You bathe in a supplied yukata, so no swimwear is needed, and staff will take photos of your buried self on your phone if you ask, which is practically compulsory. Arrive with time to spare in busy seasons, as the sand pits handle a limited number of bathers at once.
The sand bath sits by the shore at Shoningahama, between central Beppu and Kamegawa. Take the JR Nippo Line one short stop from Beppu Station to Beppu Daigaku Station and walk down to the beach, or hop in a taxi from the station if you would rather save your legs.
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