Naoki Onogawa Museum on Shodoshima: Paper Crane Art

Naoki Onogawa folds paper cranes smaller than a fingernail, then gathers them by the thousand onto sculpted trees that seem to shimmer with white leaves. His work grew out of a visit to Tohoku after the 2011 earthquake and tsunami, where the sight of donated paper cranes left a deep mark, and it has since been shown around the world. This small museum on Shodoshima, the olive growing island in the Seto Inland Sea, is the dedicated home of his art.

What you will see

The galleries hold a collection of his crane trees alongside newer pieces, displayed in near darkness with careful spot lighting so each sculpture floats out of the black. It is a quiet, contemplative space, and most visitors take 30 to 60 minutes to move through slowly. Photography rules can change with exhibitions, so check on arrival.

Getting there

Shodoshima is reached by ferry, most conveniently from Takamatsu on Shikoku, with regular sailings to Tonosho Port; standard ferries take about an hour and high speed boats are quicker. The museum sits on the Tonosho side of the island, which makes it an easy first or last stop. Takamatsu itself connects to Okayama by the JR Marine Liner if you are coming from Honshu.

Make a day of Shodoshima

Pair the museum with Angel Road, the sandbar near Tonosho that appears at low tide, then an olive grove or a soy sauce warehouse further around the coast. The island rewards a slow loop, and local buses or a hire car will get you around. Ferries stop running in the evening, so keep an eye on the last sailing back.

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